Valerio Backslashnew has designed a small dock for the Onion Omega 2 and 2+:
I needed the smallest dock i could do, that featured:
- Type A USB host
- Micro USB for power
Here’s what i came up with, i called it dock\new.
It has an onboard linear voltage regulation (i didn’t bother going with a switching one for such low power), magnetics integrated in the RJ45 connector to save space, USB host ESD protection (diode array), USB host PTC fuse.
On the left side there is the RJ45 connector and nothing on the back side of the board, so that you can easily access the MicroSD card on the Omega 2+.
On the right side (the antenna side of the omega) you have the USB type A connector, facing outwards, and the microusb connector for power, facing inwards.
The project is open source (CC-BY-SA 4.0), and the KiCad schematics, board layout and the other files are available on GitHub:
5N44P has shared the board on OSH Park:
Alex on Hackaday.io is working on a smart miniature (DIP6) 5×7 LED Matrix:
This project is based on my #reDOT project. Basicly it is a 5×7 SMD LED Matrix an a microcontroller on one PCB. I started wirh 0201 LEDs (see first project log), but this was not reliable. So a second version with 0402 is in development. 0402 LEDs do have some benefits over 0201:
- bigger and you can solder them better
- more colors availible
The microcontroller (a low coast STM8) drives all LEDs directly with multiplexing. For controlling a UART interface is available. The dimensions are like a DIP-6 package. For easy connection of multiple PCBs, the pads are castellated. Also the supply rails are available on both sides. So multiple of these display can be soldered together to a bigger display without the need of additional wiring.
Jens Hauke designed this charlieplexed 20 LED blinker controlled by an ATTiny45 for the Hackaday Coin Cell Challenge:
This is a small blinky with 20 LEDs powered by one CR2032 coin cell
and with an ATTiny45 brain. The firmware is written in plain C and
compiled with the avr-gcc toolchain. The PCB is a two layer design made
Space efficient daisychained LED placing with shared anode/cathode soldering pads.
Firmware and gerbers are available on GitHub:
Jens has shared the board on OSH Park:
Here is a video of the LED in action:
A holiday project by Dan Hienzsch (@rheingoldheavy) to build a little Snowbot with an adjustable speed larson scanner for an eye:
The Snowbot has three major subsystems: Power and Timer and Display.
The power subsystem uses a 3.7V LiPO battery boosted to 5V with an SC4503 boost converter to power the fully analog circuit. It requires a set of passive components in order to generate the higher voltage.
The timer subsystem is comprised of a 555 IC that generates a clock signal. The speed of the clock is adjusted by twisting the potentiometer (the nose of the snowbot). The clock signal ticks through the outputs of a CD4017 decade counter, lighting each LED in sequence, then moving back through them again.
The display subsystem involves taking the output of the CD4017, and directing it to six red LEDs in the form of a larson scanner. In addition to lighting the LED, the current also charges a 22uF capacitor through a diode. When the output moves to the next LED, the cap discharges through a 2.2K resistor (part of a resistor network), fading the LED out gracefully.
The 1bitsy and Black Magic Probe are now available in our store:
Open-Source Miniature Breadboard Friendly ARM Cortex-M4F Dev Board with 1MB Flash, 196kB RAM, 168MHz, floating point and more.
Plug and Play JTAG/SWD USB programmer and debugger with a built in GDB server and TTL level UART to USB adapter.
From Ken Olsen of The Maker’s Box:
You never know what people will do with your ideas, and it is always fun to see someone do something I would have never thought off with them. I got a video from someone who built my Programmable Fidget Spinner, and used a leaf blower to see how fast they could get it to go. Fortunately, they were wearing safety glasses, and no, it didn’t come flying apart. It did, however, start displaying erratically at about 3600 RPM (the fastest I can get it by hand is just under 2000 RPM).
So, what is going on? TLDR: I figured it out and fixed it, and here is proof.
Timothy Woo has launched a Indiegogo campaign to manufacture his open-source, Arduino-compatible, wireless PCB reflow oven controller:
Reflowduino is the first completely open-source, Arduino-compatible reflow oven controller of its kind that enables practically anyone to assemble their own beautiful circuit boards at home!
Reflowduino comes loaded with features, all in a compact Arduino-compatible package, with full documentation, example code, demo app, and comprehensive wiki on Github.
Reflowduino is designed to be extremely easy to use! The general concept is to switch the power of the appliance on or off with a solid-state relay as shown below, measuring the temperature by placing the thermocouple tip inside the oven during the whole process.
If nothing else, please share this campaign to your friends, family, and anyone who might be interested on social media! Remember that every view counts for me, and I’m depending on you to make this happen!